In this video, Daniel Yuck demonstrates how he applies a tattoo stencil to fake skin.
Video Transcript:
Hello everyone. Daniel Yuck here. Thank you all for tuning in today, I appreciate you.
Today I want to make a quick video and I want to share with you all the approach that I take to apply detailed complex stencils to fake skin.
Now this is going to be for fake skin only. If you have any questions about anything that you see or hear throughout this video, please I’m going to encourage you drop a comment down below. I will do my absolute best to assist you in the best possible direction.
With that being said let’s dive straight on into this.
For this demonstration I’m going to be using Trueskin fake skin as you see right here. I’ve done an in-depth review on this, so if you haven’t be sure to check that out.
So I’m going to be using Trueskin as it is a massive slab of skin and we’re going to need a couple of things. So for me personally, when I apply stencils to fake skin, I use a speed stick. I’m going to need a couple of scotch shop wipes and we’re going to need a stencil. In this case I’m going to be using this really detailed complex mandala right here that I created. And we’re going to be applying that there to the Trueskin.
Allow me to bring you up close because I want to show you the amount of speed stick that I apply to the fake skin. So let’s switch on over to the angle and allow me to explain a little bit more on that.
Where I typically begin is I like to clean off my canvas site and clean off the fake skin with some alcohol. So I’ll get some alcohol and I will put some on a scotch shop wipe and I will simply wipe down the entire canvas area. So that way I’m removing any dust or anything that could potentially cause any disturbances or issues with the stencil application process.
Perfect, so once you thoroughly clean it off you can let it air, dry you can wipe it down again to dry it off. And then from here what we’re going to want to do is we’re going to want to apply the speed stick and just to reiterate keep in mind speed stick is only for fake skin. I do not use this for human skin at all.
So the entire canvas area is dry and you want to make sure that it’s thoroughly dry so that way the alcohol doesn’t interfere with the speed stick and doesn’t blur the stencil. Okay, so we’re dry and ready to go everywhere. So what I’m going to do is again I’m going to apply a generous amount and I want to bring you over to a side angle here so that way you can see how much I actually apply here. And we can really use the light to see how much I’m applying and how much I’m removing upon applying the stencil.
I figured I’d do a more updated video here. I do get a lot of questions on people asking me how I apply stencils and this is the exact process that I take. And it’s pretty much the same the same on almost all fake skins I’ve ever tried. I still haven’t mastered inkjet ink yet. When I do that I will definitely share that with you all.
So you can see there that I have a nice cohesive layer of speed stick. I’m not sure if you can see that there. So what I’m gonna do from here is I’m gonna grab a clean scotch shop wipe and I’m gonna make it into a little brush here like so. And I’m going to use this to simply brush away the excess speed stick that I don’t need which is going to cause blurring and bleeding in the stencil design. And for the detailed design that we have that’s not something that we want so we want to get the right amount of speed stick and to do that I’m going to simply wipe away and I’m going to use the light.
Let me go ahead and move that there. And you want to make sure that you’re using your light to ensure that you don’t have too much and you’re not removing too much either. So I feel like we’re right around the ballpark of where I need to be.
What I’m going to do now is begin to get my design and place it on. It doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect, but we want to get it as spot on in the middle as we can and after I press down I’m going to get another scotch shop wipe and then place it over.
Now I’m not going to wipe. I’m not creating a wiping motion here. What I’m doing is I’m simply pressing down applying pressure to the design so it can bind and adhere to the Trueskin. I want the purple to you know stick on over there to the Trueskin. So I’m just going to simply press down take my time doing this.
This part right here is kind of crucial because we can simply rush it and pull the stencil off and other places that we were supposed to press down on didn’t get pressed because we were rushing so make sure that we’re kind of steady and consistent here and that we’re going to really press thoroughly all over the entire design.
So I do feel like we may have gotten a great press here. Let me go over here a little bit more. So what I’m doing when I’m picking up the napkin is I’m looking for dry areas that don’t look like they’ve binded or even stuck to a Trueskin. So then I’ll go and I’ll apply pressure there in those areas.
And then from here we can reveal what we have and as you can see we have a beautiful stencil. Now we are almost home free. Before I let this settle and dry what I would like to do is I’m going to grab a brand new scotch shop wipe, but this is important it’s a brand new one. I’m going to place it over and I’m just simply going to pat down.
Now what I’m doing here is I’m removing any excess speed stick or stencil applicant as well as excess stencil that would have just bled and blurred as it was drying. And again I’m taking my time. I don’t want to wipe in this area and as you can see it’s removing a lot of that stencil there.
I’m going to flip it over and I’m going to repeat that process and I’m going to press down in the middle because there’s a lot of detail there in the middle. Don’t want to lose that detail there.
As you see I’m applying a fair amount of pressure so that we can really lift up as much excess everything that we don’t need. There as you see so this side down here can use a little more pressing I feel. So I’m going to simply place this down and then I’m going to press down. As you see that was a lot of stencil still there. And again we’re doing this right here we’re removing some of the excess stain so that way the stencil doesn’t blur bleed and do all of that there.
And then you can repeat this process until you’re happy with the results. Then I can grab clean sides and then hold it like this and then kind of be more selective with where I want to remove excess. And I’m real meticulous with this because once I get the stencil down it’s literally just a matter of waiting and letting it dry and then I get to do a really cool tattoo. So I want to make sure that I take my time and I get this part right right here so that way when I’m done with presentation I get to present it well.
I am now at the stage where I’m going to simply let this tattoo stencil rest and dry onto the Trueskin fake skin. What I’m gonna do in about eight to twelve hours I’m gonna get some vaseline and i’m gonna place it on top of the stencil and I’m gonna wipe away so that way I’m left with a very light purple design like this area right here all the way through.
The reason why I’m going to do that is so that way when I’m done with the entire tattoo we don’t have any of the purple showing through or we have very minimal and I do this for presentation purposes as these make for a great portfolio.
I wanted to show you all what it looks like taking off the stencil after it’s already rested for about 12 to 24 hours. So here this stencil has rested now for about 12 hours give or take. And you can see like in this area right here I haven’t fully wiped away and it’s darker. And this whole topper part or this whole upper half of the mandala right here is also darker.
Allow me to demonstrate the points that I’m trying to make here. So for me I don’t like for this dark stencil to sit on there more than 24 hours because it’s going to dry permanently that dark. And sometimes that darkness that sort of tint there from the staining of the stencil is a bit obnoxious.
So here I have some ink ease, vaseline will work as well, and I’m going to go ahead and just simply apply pressure while turning in circular motions. And you can see what it’s doing is up here in this area for example it’s removing the dark part of the stencil here. So that way I’m left with a nice light faint stain of the design. I’m not left with any abrupt dark marks here. And for me this is a much better and cleaner approach and this makes for better presentation when we are done with the tattoo. Because I do want to keep these for my portfolio so that way I can present my work should anyone ever ask on the spot. You get the idea and that’s what I’m trying to explain here that’s one thing that I wanted to show you all. Allow it to rest for about 12 you know 12 hours or so give or take. Whatever you can do on your end. I think this one was about 12 hours sitting and then I went and I put the layer of ink eaze, as you saw and I just simply wiped down any excess dark spots that were going to stain later on here.
And as you can see I’m still left with a very faint stencil that’s completely 110 workable. Now when I finish the tattoo the purple stencil coming up through is going to be a lot less. So essentially that is it. That is how I go about applying stencils. Also if we don’t use that method where we place down a scotch shop wipe or napkin on top after we’ve applied the stencil, it tends to look like this when it dries. So you see how we have some sort of blurring there and just a lot of weird things going on right here? The stencil tends to dry like that as well should we not remove any excess.
Yet again if you have any questions about anything that you may have saw throughout this video or heard I’m going to encourage you drop a comment below. I will do my absolute best to assist you in the best possible direction. I also have social medias all under the same name as this youtube channel. I have facebook, instagram, twitter, and tick tock.
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